Cahergal to Kilcrohane (West)

The Sheep’s Head Way (West) starts in Bantry town, then travels the north side of the peninsula to Sheep’s Head lighthouse, returning to Bantry from the south side.

This stage of the Sheep’s Head Way goes from Cahergal to Kilcrohane, and passes through several interesting historical sites. The trail starts at Cahergal car park and travels westwards to the Crimea, Gortavallig Mine, The Cove and onwards to the Lighthouse at the end of the Sheep’s Head peninsula.

The pier in Kilcrohane is a popular swimming location, and on Sundays in the summer you can find music in Fitzpatricks. The Creamery and Bridge View House are a popular restaurants. Food trucks pass through in the Summer, but you will have to ask locally for a schedule.

Western Main Trail Details

Distance23 km
GradeStrenuous
Estimated
Walking Time
8-10 hrs
Ascent690 m
Descent734 m
Min. Height4 m
Max. Height230 m

Western Main Trail Description

A short distance along this section you pass through what is known as ‘The Crimea’, a small abandoned hamlet. The path winds around the ruined dwellings. One of the ruins has been restored.
At Post 220 the path descends towards a pond which was part of the local copper mine workings. There are several open (fenced) shafts here. The path then crosses a narrow rock ledge with a safety hand rail and wonderful cliff views.

Just before marker 222 is a ruined terrace of cottages that were occupied by the miners. The mine was worked between 1840-90.
The path climbs to the crest of the low ridge from where you look down to The Cove. Here there is a memorial to the author JG Farrell who tragically drowned here in 1979

Turn left and after a short distance along a track turn right at marker 235 and after another short distance you turn right to follow the roadway at marker 238 then follow the trail off road once more.
Follow the yellow arrows to the end of the peninsula and the lighthouse. You continue on the trail, now heading east along the south side of the peninsula, until you reach Tooreen Trail head and Bernie’s “Cupán Tae”. Bernie Tobin ran this café for many years, but sadly passed away in 2023. She was a core member of the Sheep's Head Way and was instrumental in the keeping the walks open. She was also a wonderful ambassador for the area, and she is sorely missed by all those who stopped for cup of tea and a scone at her café.

The trail leads you eastwards along the South side of the peninsula looking across Dunmanus Bay.
Beyond the Cafe, the trail marker can be found just behind the toilet building. The path climbs quickly and you pass a small lookout post called ‘The Camp’, a relic from the second world war, known as The Emergency’ in Ireland.
Soon after is an Ordnance Survey “trig point”, a concrete triangulation point marking a hill’s highest spot, with views over small loughs and, to the north side of the peninsula, Bantry Bay and the Beara peninsula.

You then pass the ruins of a 17th Century Signal Tower which finally blew down in 1990. From here the old road, built to service the tower, begins and descends to Fail Bheag where you cross the road by turning left and then right shortly after.
At marker 353, the path turns right and over a stone stile into a field. You then descend to the road and turn left towards Letter West. Continue along the road until the way marker indicates a turn to the right.
If you walk a short distance further along this road instead of turning to the right for the Sheep’s Head Way trail, you will reach the Black Gate Trailhead and Alice West Museum.
From here you can explore the coast and walk fishing spurs at Tra Ruaim and Dooneen.

The Sheep’s Head Way route turns right off the main road onto a smaller road, signed ‘Trá Ruiam’. Follow the road steeply downhill to the beach and quay where you can take the fishing access loop around Reen headland, or continue left, at marker 360.
Where the path meets the road at marker 378 turn left. Turn right if you want to explore Dooneen headland and quay.

The trail follows the small roadway back up hill to join the main road again where you turn right along the road for about 1.4km. At marker 382 take a right turn across a cattle grid and down a farm track, left across fields and then down to the strand.
Follow the trail markers through a private garden to cross a stone flag bridge over the stream. Go straight across a quiet road and through gates into another small private area, cross to the far corner where the trail continues.
At marker 403 you turn left up the road and then turn right onto the main road and into the village of Kilcrohane.